The Seventh Cloud: Vintage

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Showing posts with label Vintage. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Vintage. Show all posts

Thursday, February 5, 2015

Makeup is a not XXI century issue.




Mankind has always sought to excel in different areas of science, economics, medicine. Always looking to improve their social, economic and political status. But there is one area that is not spoken of. How the personal image of women  played an important role in society so that they could excel from the rest.

The research and studies about makeup (cosmetics) show that they have been around since the ancient Egypt.  Apparently everything began with the discovery of scented oils. The realized (or believed) that this scented oils had healing characteristics. Not only they were used for medicinal purposes but they used them for their religious rituals, the same happened with herbs, the not only consume them but they use them to apply the paint . Women and men started to apply to their face and bodies some kind of clay in different colors. This proof was found in Egyptian tombs and we also have the old drawings that show how they decorated themselves with the colors and shapes.







The Greek,Asian, Romans and Arabic cultures followed the medicinal/beauty rituals. During the 18th-Century pale skin was fashionable, even men used it! This white makeup was called Venetian Ceruse, it was made famous by Queen Elizabeth I. The upper class painted their face, neck and chest until it was completely pale, like porcelain. The Venetian Ceruse powder was mixed with vinegar which created a milky white powder. While today lead is considered a very lethal toxin, back in the 18th century the dangers of lead were very often overlooked.










During Queen Victoria’s mourning period, she declared that painted faces were vulgar. That a minimalist look (clothing and makeup) had to be the new rule. The Industrial Revolution made the mass production of cosmetics possible although many people continued to make cosmetics at home. However in the 19th century some people disapproved of women wearing makeup and it was often sold under the counter. The film director D.W. Griffith invented false eyelashes in 1916. Women have dyed their nails for centuries but modern nail varnish was invented in 1917. The French manicure was invented in 1975. Meanwhile modern lip gloss was invented in 1930 and went on sale in 1932.









Between the World Wars, women turned to beauty products, encouraged by flawless models featured in luxury fashion magazines.  In the 1950s and 60s television brought advertisements for cosmetics and hair products to people’s homes. Today, the products supplied by the cosmetics industry , from soap and bath oil to toothpaste and shaving foam play an important role in our daily personal hygiene routine.










Mascara from brand leaders such as Maybelline was an imperative cosmetic to have in your handbag. Though it wasn’t until the 1960s that women applied it again to lower lashes again ( like in 1920’s ). Loads of newly patented cosmetic tools like eyelash curlers and eyebrow stencils helped young women achieve the look of whatever starlet took their fancy.


Nowadays, women use makeup as they please. There is obviously beauty standards made by the cosmetics corporation and trends according to the seasons but it became a form of creativity. Some women want to look as natural as they can, some use vintage makeup style and others try to create trends.The question now is: 


  • Why do women wear makeup? Is it because we want to look better or we want to be a different person? 
  • Our makeup has become a mask to hide more than spots and freckles?


What's your style? 





www.localhistories.org

www.cosmeticseurope.eu

Friday, January 16, 2015

What Downton Abbey do to people .


-"What Downton Abbey it's about?"

This was not the first time I heard someone ask: What is it about Downton Abbey that makes people like it so much? This post it's not only for people who has never watched the show before but also for fans. Maybe you agree with me or maybe you would like to add more things.

So let me try to explain it for you:


1. What Downton Abbey it's about?




Basically, Downton Abbey it's a period television series or an historical TV series. This means that the story is set in an earlier time period in history. For Example: Downton Abbey's first season is set from 1912 to 1914, second season 1916 to1919, third season 1920, fourth season 1922 and fifth season 1924.

The show itself is about the aristocratic Crawley family and their lives during some historical events and how the changes affected the society, the family and their world. The story of this family is intertwined with the lives of the servitude working in Downton Abbey, the home of the Crawleys. 

"An average of 10.1-million total viewers tuned in to the season premiere on Sunday on PBS. "Downton," created by writer-producer Julian Fellowes, is the biggest hit series in the 44-year history of PBS." -LATimes



2. Why Downton Abbey it's so popular ?




There are viewers who degrade themselves by saying that DA will be a "hard”, “complicated" and too "posh" series to watch. But even though the Crawley family it's an aristocrat family, it is not hard to empathize with them, as people and above all the show it's very interesting for many reasons.


In addition to meeting one of its objectives, entertain viewers, there are many valuable features about this show that makes it stand out from other dramas on TV:

- The show is classy, witty, fun, tasteful and ...did I mention classy?



In a world where it became normal to watch trashy house wives, people fighting, sex, nudity, dating reality shows, people getting drunk and pucking in front of a camera, it is a breath of fresh air to have Downton Abbey on TV. 


The way it is presented is completely opposite to others prime time shows (For example in U.S TV ). This show is classy, fun, entertaining and it teaches people things about the society and the world during the 1900's that nowadays, people wouldn’t even know because we don’t pick up history books anymore. It actually made viewers re-think their moral codes, their manners and most important of all... people are asking themselves as viewers: " What the hell I was watching before Downton Abbey?!” These new questions creates new standards in viewers.

-Downton Abbey is a different way to learn about:






  • Irish History
  • The life of women in the early 1900s
  • Racial Issues
  • Second class citizens
  • Social etiquette
  • 1990s household traditions
  • The birth of the modern industrial age


...to name a few.

-Downton Abbey introduce us to a world that doesn't exist anymore



Obviously we live in a world where we no longer wear dresses and men do not wear hats around the clock but there are things that, in modern society, we have lost and are still important, they make sense and should return to be adapted to today's world.

  1. People in powerful positions were respected (because they were righteous and honorable).
  2. The help/ the servitude are grateful, honest, and faithful they were glad to do their jobs.
  3. Men as Women believed in honor.
  4. Good manners and looking presentable were a form of showing respect to others.
  5. Chastity (the dominion over our sexuality) was not a thing to get rid off but a virtue.
  6. Men were chivalrous and women liked it. In fact, being chivalrous was an important virtue. 
  7. Meal time was an event. (Dinner for example)
+If you would like to learn more about the table etiquette on the show click HERE




-The viewers pay attention to the show for all the right reasons






A show like Downton Abbey doesn't need to show nudity or sex scenes in every episode. The creator, Julian Fellowes and the writers, don’t have the marketing advantage of showing the characters wearing the latest collection of a famous brand, neither can’t they use the latest technology to get people's attention on the show.

The viewers pay attention to Downton Abbey because of the interesting plots developing with the upstairs and with the downstairs characters, it's very important not to miss comments or disapproving looks to understand what's going on with each of them. I believe people are fascinated with the idea that there were people that once lived like that.

The film locations, the sets and the scenery in general are the other 50% of the show that demands the viewers’ attention. How we could not be in awe with the Highclere Castle in the county of Hampshire (the Crawley's property), the dozen of rooms inside of it or with the decoration? There are viewers that only dream about traveling to see those places but thanks to Downton Abbey, they can see a little piece of that world. Props to the Art Direction, Set Decoration, Production Design, Art Department teams.

If that wasn’t enough, the costumes are incredible, especially for the actresses. The men look very good in their costumes but they are not competition for the ladies. (Click HERE to see Downton Abbey's Costumes) Finally, I don't think I have to say that the actors do an excellent job making us believe that the characters we see on television are real.






Finally, here are some recaps of the past seasons of Downton Abbey but I recommend you to see all seasons, you will be hooked like I did!











Dinner Downton Abbey Style: Good manners and table etiquette





Have you ever wondered which customs and etiquette traditions have been lost to history, and which still endure today? To see just how much social norms have evolved, one only needs to watch a dinner scene in Downton Abbey. The rigid formality and meticulous behavior of the Crawley family feel like a world apart from our modern lives.

If you’re dreaming of hosting your own Downton-style celebration, there are a few essential rules of the era you should know. While you might not replicate every silver spoon or footman’s flourish, you can certainly capture the spirit of Edwardian elegance.




There is a growing nostalgia for the refined protocols of the past—from the precision of breakfast service to the grandeur of formal dinners. Thanks in part to the "Downton Abbey effect," traditional table manners are becoming fashionable once more. Seeing that level of elegance on screen inspires a genuine desire to revive those standards in our own homes.

Many etiquette rules from the Victorian and Edwardian eras remain surprisingly relevant. In fact, if you look closely, you’ll notice that many of today’s most polished hosts still practice habits passed down from these two periods. (We’ll skip the protocols for hosting royalty, however, as most of us aren't expecting a Duke for dinner!)

 If you are a hostess/host : 




Option 1: Elegant & Polished (Best for an article or blog)

There is a growing nostalgia for the refined protocols of the Victorian and Edwardian eras. Thanks to the "Downton Abbey effect," formal table manners are becoming fashionable once more; seeing that level of grandeur on screen inspires a desire to bring a touch of that elegance into our own homes.

Many etiquette rules from a century ago remain surprisingly relevant today. In fact, if you look closely at modern formal gatherings, you'll notice that the most polished guests still follow traditions passed down from these two eras. (We will skip the protocols for hosting titled nobility, however, as most of us aren't expecting a Duke for dinner!)

Option 2: Engaging & Modern (Best for social media or a guide)

We are seeing a major comeback in table etiquette. Shows like Downton Abbey have reignited our love for the ceremony of breakfast, lunch, and dinner, making "proper" manners feel trendy again.

Many Victorian and Edwardian customs still have a place at the modern table—and in fact, they should be used more often. You’d be surprised how many people still instinctively follow these century-old rules today. Since most of us aren't hosting royalty this weekend, let’s focus on the traditions that actually work for a modern, sophisticated home. 



  • The Protocol: Always include the dress code on the invitation. A well-informed guest is a confident guest, and it ensures your party looks as coordinated as a Crawley dinner.

  • The Faux Pas: Never tell a guest to "just wear whatever." In the world of high etiquette, ambiguity is the enemy of comfort. You want your guests to arrive feeling perfectly prepared, not worried about whether they missed the mark.

  If you are the guest:



1. The Invitation & RSVP

  • The "Do": Respond immediately. Whether you receive a phone call, a formal card, or a digital invite, your host has extended a kindness by planning ahead for you. Replying promptly allows the host or hostess to finalize the guest count, ensuring they have the perfect amount of food and drink for a seamless evening.

  • The "Don’t": Avoid accepting an invitation if you already know you cannot attend. It is far more polite to decline early than to cancel at the last minute. If you must miss the event, a quick call to apologize and explain your absence is the most gracious way to handle it.

  • A "Downton" Fun Fact:

    In the Edwardian era, an invitation to dinner was usually sent three weeks in advance, and a guest was expected to reply within 24 hours of receiving it!

  
2. Dress Code 




  • The "Do": If your invitation or host doesn't specify an expected attire, don’t be afraid to ask. It is always better to clarify the dress code beforehand than to spend the evening feeling out of place.

  • The "Don’t": If a dress code is clearly stated, respect it. Arriving in casual wear when "Black Tie" or "Formal" is requested is seen as a lack of consideration for the host’s efforts.

In the Victorian and Edwardian eras, table manners and attire were the ultimate indicators of one’s upbringing. Together, they formed the "ideal package" required to navigate high society and maintain one's standing in the social hierarchy. 
 
 
 
Time to sit on the table 



Seating & Table Manners
    • The Entrance: Do not sit until the host or hostess has taken their seat. Simply stand behind your chair until they are settled or specifically invite you to sit.

    • The Napkin: The meal officially begins when the hostess removes her napkin from the table. Follow her lead, placing yours in your lap. At formal dinners, large cloth napkins should be unfolded halfway, with the fold facing your waist. (Note: If you are wearing evening gloves, they should be tucked discreetly under your napkin).

    • The "No-Fly" Zone: Never place personal items on the table. This includes cell phones, glasses, wallets, or handbags. The table is for dining, not storage.

    • Posture & Elbows: Keep your elbows off the table at all times. When eating, you may rest your wrists lightly on the edge; otherwise, keep your hands in your lap.

    • The Flow of Food: Only begin eating once the host or hostess does. In a house like Downton Abbey, the footmen would never remove a course until the hostess had finished her last bite.

    • The Art of Conversation: Divide your attention equally. It is tradition to speak first with the person to your right, and then transition to the person on your left. In formal etiquette, this is known as "turning the table," ensuring no guest is ever left in silence.

    Handling Silverware Once a piece of silverware is lifted, it should never touch the table again. When resting between bites, place your knife and fork in a "V" shape on the plate. When you have finished the course, place them parallel to each other (the "10:20" or "6:30" position) to signal to the server—or host—that your plate may be cleared.




  • The Host's Position: Ideally, the host and hostess should sit opposite each other at the center of the table. This "middle-out" arrangement allows them to maintain eye contact and lead the conversation with all guests more effectively. Practically, this also ensures that if a butler or footman isn't present, the host can easily reach and serve the main dishes.

  • Passing the Platters: Traditionally, food is passed to the right (counter-clockwise). However, modern etiquette favors common sense over rigid tradition: if the person to your left needs something you are currently holding, it is perfectly acceptable to pass it directly to them rather than sending it on a long journey around the entire table.




  • The Silverware Rule: At a formal Downton-style dinner, the array of cutlery can be intimidating. The golden rule is simple: work from the outside in. If you are ever in doubt, a discreet glance at your host will reveal which piece to use next.

  • Service Etiquette: Should you find your cutlery is not clean, do not attempt to polish it with your napkin—this is a significant breach of etiquette. Instead, catch a server’s eye with a subtle hand signal and quietly request a replacement.

  • Refined Conversation: A dinner party is as much about the company as the food. Engage warmly with your neighbors to the left and right, but remain mindful of the table’s overall energy. To keep the atmosphere harmonious, strictly avoid the "unholy trinity" of conversation: religion, politics, and money.

Table Etiquette: The Definitive List of Dos and Don'ts


The "Golden Rules" of Dining (What Not to Do)

  • The Unspoken Rule of Bread: Never use a knife to cut your bread. Instead, break off a small, bite-sized piece with your hands and butter only that piece before eating it.

  • Cutlery Discipline: Never gesticulate or point with your silverware while speaking. Furthermore, once you have begun a course, your cutlery should never touch the table again; it must always rest on the plate.

  • Quiet Dignity: Avoid speaking too loudly or using profanity. Similarly, keep a steady pace—do not rush through your meal, but don't fall so far behind that you hold up the service.

  • The "Hostess" Clause: Never criticize the food or offer "better" ways to cook it. Conversely, if you are the host, never apologize for the meal. Doing so makes guests feel obligated to reassure you, which creates an awkward atmosphere.

  • Discreet Dislikes: If you don't care for a specific dish, simply leave it on your plate without comment. Never complain or make a scene.

  • Personal Care: Never use a toothpick at the table. If you have something caught in your teeth, excuse yourself to the restroom.

  • Device-Free Zone: Keep your mouth clear. Never speak with food in your mouth, and always wipe your lips before taking a sip of your drink to avoid leaving marks on the glass.


Gracious Guest Behavior (What to Do)

  • The Art of Presence: Make eye contact when speaking. Remember, the food can wait, but your conversation partner deserves your full attention.

  • Polite Phrasing: Use "the language of the table." Instead of "Give me the salt," try "Would you please pass the salt?" or "May I trouble you for the butter?"

  • Master the RSVP of Time: Never leave the table while others are still eating. If you must leave, always ask to be excused.

  • The "Hour Rule": Plan to stay for at least an hour after dinner has concluded. Leaving immediately after the final course implies you were only there for the food, rather than the company.

  • Positive Atmosphere: Introduce "pleasing topics." A dinner table is a place for light, engaging, and inclusive conversation—not for venting or heavy debates.




The definitive signal that dinner has concluded is when the hostess places her knife and fork together across the center of the plate and lays her napkin on the table. You should follow suit only after she has done so, marking the official end of the meal.




The Dessert Course For the final course, you will notice a dessert spoon and fork placed horizontally above your dinner plate. The technique here is specific: use the fork for eating and the spoon as a "pusher" to guide the dessert onto the fork—or vice versa, depending on the dish's consistency.

The Post-Dinner Transition In a traditional Downton setting, the conclusion of the meal marked the "withdrawal." Historically, the ladies would retire to the drawing room for coffee and light conversation, while the gentlemen remained in the dining room to enjoy cigars, port, and business talk. While this is less common today, the groups would typically reunite after an hour for parlor games or cards, continuing the evening’s festivities in a more relaxed atmosphere.




A hostess’s duty is only truly complete when she accompanies her guests to their carriages (or, in modern times, to the front door) to see them off. This final gesture—a warm goodbye and a wave as they depart—ensures that the evening ends with the same elegance and hospitality with which it began.



Hope you enjoyed these basic tips to learn some good manners and table etiquette. I hope this will help you to understand more about the solemnity and protocol that the Victorians and the Edwardians were used to. Maybe you can implement these tips and use them at a themed evening party. Good luck! 


Ready to try your new knowledge about dining at Downton Abbey? Try this Poll !

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